И как с этим жить?

You're so right. This is why thorough and comprehensive reviews are so rare. It is much easier to write about your own work and maybe that of a few colleagues, than to start digging into the references, following up trails, and producing a balanced, complete piece of work that really covers a field.

I see this trend in my current field (photoelectrochemistry, especially in the context of renewable energy storage). Everyone feels compelled to write a review about this "critical and important topic" - I could almost swear there are more reviews than articles in the field - but nobody seems to bother much about citing seminal papers, illuminating the developments in a balanced way, or even covering everything that happened in any particular subtopic.

And finally, suppose you make this kind of effort and produce a truly valueable review - will it be appreciated proportionally to the time you invested in it? Perhaps; but you can't be sure... I've written 3 reviews so far, two of them comprehensive, one focused on our lab (style of Accounts of Chemical Research). Neither is cited too much; even though it might well be linked to other factors (quality of my writing, visibility of journals, importance of field?), it still doesn't leave me with much enthusiasm for writing any more reviews...

Good luck anyway! :-)